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Q:How to tell knitted fabrics from woven fabrics??

A:

In the face of a wide variety of clothing fabrics, but the type of fabric do you really understand? Today, let's take a look at this knowledge.

Fabrics in general are divided into woven fabrics and knitted fabrics two categories. Woven fabric is a fabric formed by weaving warp and weft together vertically. Knitted fabrics are made of yarn or filament formed by knitting needles, and then the coils are strung together.

Knitted fabrics and woven fabrics have their own unique characteristics in processing technology, fabric structure, fabric characteristics and finished products because of their different methods of weaving. Some comparisons are made here.

Knitting and tatting are distinguished from four aspects

01

- Basic concept -

(1) Knitted fabrics

Knitting refers to the process of using knitting needles to form a coil of various raw materials and varieties of yarn and then connecting it into knitted fabric through a series of sets. This can be done laterally or lengthwise, with the lateral weave called weft weave and the longitudinal weave called warp weave.

The coil is the smallest basic unit of knitted fabric, and the coil is composed of a spatial curve of the loop stem and the extension line.

(2) Woven fabric

Woven fabric consists of two or more groups of perpendicular yarns interwoven at a 90 degree Angle. Longitudinal yarns are called warp yarns and transverse yarns are called weft yarns.

Each point of intersection between warp and weft is called the tissue point and is the smallest basic unit of woven fabric.

02

- Fabric structure characteristics -

(1) Knitted fabrics

Because the coil is made of yarn bending in space, and each coil is composed of one yarn, when the knitted fabric is subjected to external tension, such as longitudinal stretching, the coil bending changes, and the coil height also increases, while the width of the coil decreases. If the tension is transverse stretching, the opposite is true. The height and width of the coil can obviously be converted to each other under different tension conditions. Therefore, the elongation of knitted fabric is large.

It can be extended in all directions and has good elasticity. Because the knitted fabric is formed by the porous coil, it has great breathable performance and soft feel.

(2) Woven fabric

Because the warp and weft are somewhat bent where they interweave, and only bend in the direction perpendicular to the plane of the fabric, the degree of bending is related to the tension between the warp and weft yarns, as well as yarn stiffness.

When the woven fabric is subjected to external tension, such as lengthwise stretching, the warp tension increases, the bending decreases, and the warp warp increases, such as lengthwise stretching until the warp is completely straight and the fabric contracts laterally. When the woven fabric is stretched crosswise by external tension, the weft's tension increases and the warp's bend decreases, while the warp's bend increases. For example, the warp is stretched until the weft is completely straight and the fabric contracts lengthwise. The warp and weft do not change, unlike knitted fabrics.

The warp and weft extension of woven fabric has little relationship with contraction, and no conversion occurs, so the fabric is generally tight and stiff.

03

- Organizational structure -

(1) Knitting

Knitted fabrics have corresponding organizational structures, including:

A. Basic organization. Plain stitch tissue, rib tissue, and double and reverse tissue

B. Change the organization. Including the change of flat stitch tissue, double rib tissue and so on

C. The color organization

① Flat stitch tissue

The simplest fabric in knitted fabrics, consisting of continuous unit coils in one - way interlocking. Form different appearance on both sides of the fabric. The tissue is large in transverse extension, but easy to roll and loose, widely used in underwear, outerwear and various types of socks.

② Rib tissue

It is a kind of double-sided organization, composed of the longitudinal configuration of the front coil and the longitudinal configuration of the back coil. According to the number of longitudinal configuration of the front and the back coil, different names and performance rib organization. Rib tissue has good elasticity, mostly used in all kinds of underwear products and clothing parts requiring stretch (such as the hem, cuff and neckline of clothes and elastic shirt, etc.)

③ Double and reverse tissues

Also known as "pearl braid", as shown in the figure below, the double-reverse structure is formed by alternating the front and back lines of coils, which can be combined in different ways to form concave and convex stripes or patterns. The tissue has the similar characteristics of longitudinal and transverse elongation and elasticity, and is mostly used in sweaters, sweatshirts or children's clothes and other shaped products.

(2) woven

Woven fabric is composed by weaving yarn through the interleaving of warp and weft in the form of shuttles. Its organization generally includes plain weave, twill weave and satin weave and their variations.

① plain texture

The fabric formed by interweaving warp and weft is called plain weave. Plain weave is the simplest of all fabric structures.

② twill tissue

Tissue that is continuously slanted through tissue points (or weft tissue points) is called twill tissue. The surface of a twill fabric has a diagonal grain formed by a weave point (or weft point).

③ Satin texture

The single, discontinuous meridional (or weft) points are evenly distributed in the circulation of the organization, such organization is called satin organization. The surface of the fabric is presented with long floating thread (or weft floating thread), so the surface of the fabric is glossy, soft and lubricated.

④ Change of organization

It's a combination of these three basic organizational changes. Mountain twill

04

- Fabric properties -

Abrasion resistance -- knitted fabric < woven fabric

Stretch -- knitted fabric > woven fabric

Comfort -- Knitwear > woven fabric

Heat preservation - knitted fabric > woven fabric

Air permeability -- Knitted fabrics > woven fabrics

Tear strength -- Knitwear > woven fabric

Pilling resistance -- knitted fabric < woven fabric

Dimensional stability -- knitted fabrics < woven fabrics